Tokyo · coffee
Kissaten North of the Tracks
Koenji
Siphon coffee, jazz that is not a costume, and ashtrays still in use.
“I only write about it because the master does not read English blogs.”
food · Nishi-Ogikubo
Eight seats, one broth, a ticket machine that still jams.
Not a destination ramen shop. A neighborhood one that happens to be better. Extra chashu is not on the machine; you have to say it.
Walk until chain stores thin out. Steam on a glass door with a faded cola sticker.
Alley off the north-south shopping street
“I have never seen it on a map app under its real name.”
Tokyo · coffee
Koenji
Siphon coffee, jazz that is not a costume, and ashtrays still in use.
“I only write about it because the master does not read English blogs.”
Tokyo · bookshop
Shimokitazawa
English and Japanese paperbacks chosen like mixtapes.
“I bought a novel because she said it was sad in a useful way.”