Lisbon · food
Taberna do Segundo Andar
Graca
A six-table dinner that still cooks like a grandmother with opinions.
“I stopped recommending it for a year because a food account found it. Then the food account got bored. It is good again.”
coffee · Anjos
A former tailor room where the espresso is served like a letter.
Most people looking for coffee in Lisbon end up on a terrace with suitcases. Atelier da Espera is two flights up from a hardware shop in Anjos. Four tables, old magazines, and a pour-over that changes when the bag runs out.
Walk past the yellow hardware shop. Stairwell smells like floor wax. If you hear a sewing machine, you are close.
Rua do Forno do Tijolo 41
“I have been going twice a week for a year and I still do not know if they want more customers. That is the point.”
Lisbon · food
Graca
A six-table dinner that still cooks like a grandmother with opinions.
“I stopped recommending it for a year because a food account found it. Then the food account got bored. It is good again.”
Lisbon · bookshop
Campo de Ourique
A bookshop the size of a bedroom, staffed by someone who reads the stock.
“She asked what I had finished last and then sold me the opposite of it.”